PRO Builds
A hit right at the end of the hardwood bang strip and soft blade wood.
Full hard maple blade wrap, thicker on the lower edge that takes more hits.
The Challenge: I’m always chasing improvements. Out of over two hundred paddles that I’ve built, two have been damaged in the same way. This motivated me to seek a way to avoid this same injury with future paddles. After much tinkering, I’m pleased to introduce a new build option: the PRO Build! Compared to my normal layups, the PRO builds will get a full hardwood bang strip wrapped nearly the entire length of the blade.
More Details: If the blade is hit (real hard) in a spot closer to the throat, it can dent the blade wood. The blade wood is always a lighter/softer wood to keep the weight low, and there are dense hardwood bang strips that back up the dynel edging in the most high wear areas. The first time it happened, the edging didn't break, but it popped the glass open over a small area and dented the soft blade wood. It is a simple fix; not a big deal. The second time, the blade wood cracked along with the edging and took a little shark bite out of the blade. We simply duct taped it back on and finished a 5 day wilderness trip like that. Again, no big deal to fix.
The Solution: I developed a new blade layup that involves steam bending hardwood edges that run the length of the blade. With this system, there is no spot where the dynel edging is not supported by the harder bang strip. The softer blade wood is totally encased in hardwood, theoretically better protecting the whole perimeter.
Who is this for: I would recommend this to anyone who uses and abuses their paddle a lot, like professional guides, or manky creek boaters, or hair boaters (if anyone still hair boats). You may also want it because you think it looks cool as hell, or you just want the best possible paddle. It’s an add-on build configuration that I think makes the paddle better, but I also don’t think that the normal layup is inherently weaker or bad. The PRO build simply solves a small problem (and looks the business).
Why does it cost more? It’s a simple labor and materials calculation. The PRO build requires a few more hours of labor while building the paddle blank. It’s a bit more time preparing the wood, two hours in the steam box, and a few days to dry in the molds. It raises the cost of $125 for kayak paddles and $75 for single blade.
If I don’t get a PRO build, is my paddle going to be inferior? Absolutely not. I understand that everyone has different budgets and demands on their paddles. A standard build is a great paddle, and will also end up a hair lighter because there is less hardwood in the blade.